‘Wow! This looks like a cosmos’: Jeremy Lee’s Easter egg taste test

Jeremy Lee. Styling: Andie Redman.

‘Wow! This looks like a cosmos’: Jeremy Lee’s Easter egg taste test

The Quo Vadis chef rates 2023’s chocolate eggs, from the dazzling to the dismal. But which one is marbled with the flecks of lost souls?

The Chocolate Detective 12 Cuckoo’s Eggs
£12.75/12, chocolatedetective.co.uk
These little eggs in a box are absolutely charming – genius packaging, beautiful colours. A nice thin candy shell. Sweet, but not cloying. This blue one is praline. I’ll try the brown – soft caramel. That was a wonderful surprise! Very winning!

Pierre Marcolini plumier of 12 praline eggs
£21, marcolini.co.uk
Very glamorous, like polished nails at a parlour. Dark, milk, white… red chocolate? Delicious flavours; nice texture. I adore praline and seeds. Are they Eastery? They’re very grown-up, sorry children. I’ll have another now.

Asda Extra Special Dark Peppermint Egg
£7/280g, groceries.asda.com
So handsome. Shades of Fabergé, or Kiss of the Spider Woman. The chocolate is nicely dark, not too sweet, the balance of mint is good. Very refreshing. Film on the sofa after lunch, a bit of that? Jackpot.

Easter egg taste test

Hotel Chocolat Unbelievably Vegan* Nutmilk Chocolate Easter Egg
£15/200g, hotelchocolat.com/uk
Like a giant pine cone with a couple of white dots, shame about them. This is quite interesting; really good, not sweet. Vegans can miss out, so this egg might be very appreciated.

Heston from Waitrose The Chocolate Dabbit
£6/80g, waitrose.com
A duck, no – a rabbit… What is it?! That’s brilliant. You’ll scare the kids! It has a nice snap. Am I eating an ear or a bill? The dark chocolate is gorgeous, five stars, but the fudgey stuff inside is a bit too sweet, which is a shame. So fun!

Lidl Deluxe Hen Party Chocolates
£3.69/150g, lidl.co.uk
Oh, these should be in a nest! They’re so cute, just gorgeous. Genius looking, and we’ll cut them open – different insides. Quite a strong tasting filling. Looks five, tastes three. So fun, but so sweet. Back to the coop with you!

Easter egg taste test

Wicked Kitchen Poppin Candy Orange Chocolate Egg
£5/130g, tesco.com
More crunchy bits inside – this year’s trend. The bits in the chocolate are a bit weird – are they meant to pop? But the orange flavour here is quite bright, quite powerful. It’s quite fun, and vegan.

Waitrose No 1 Blonde Chocolate with Salted Caramel Truffles Easter Egg
£11/215g, waitrose.com
I am not sure this colour works, for me. Caramelly, a bit crunchy. It’s wildly sweet, but very well made. (I think the truffles are horrible.) Those that like this sort of thing will really love it.

M&S Collection Belgian Dark Chocolate Layered Egg
£12, 345g, ocado.com
Some of today’s shapes are more like strange pods from faraway lands than eggs. Pity the poor hen that gave birth to these. Dark chocolate shell with a light inner fudgey lining. Quite good.

Easter egg taste test

The Chocolate Society Caramelised Milk Chocolate Tarte Tatin Egg
£29.95/210g, chocolate.co.uk
It has little sweets inside, as Easter eggs should. Very shiny, with biscuity stuff in the shell. The little chocs are apple and caramel. Very sweet. I want to like it, but the balance slightly misses the mark.

Aldi Specially Selected Exquisite Wildflower Egg
£14.99/350g, groceries.aldi.co.uk
Madcap blossom and pollen going crazy. A very thick base, so you’re quids in, weight wise. Some crispy things in the chocolate, but I think they get lost. Very sweet milk chocolate. Not so grown-up. More of a teenager.

M&S Food Extremely Chocolatey Hot Cross Bun Egg
£9/340g, ocado.com
Hilarious! The unkind part of me says it looks unfortunate. The amused side says it’s very jolly. Very spiced, rich chocolate. A cute idea that doesn’t quite work – a pack of six small ones might be better.

Easter egg taste test

Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Dark Chocolate Fruit & Nut Egg
£8/275g, sainsburys.co.uk
Wow, this looks like a cosmos. It’s quite a strangely shaped egg, like a missile. I don’t think it’s very well-made chocolate, and the nuts are bizarrely lost.

Moser Roth Ruby Chocolate and Raspberry Geometric Egg
£3.99/120g, aldi.co.uk
Jewelled facets. So pink! It reminds me of a Pink Panther bar – does anyone remember that? No, everyone’s so young. I honestly don’t know what it is. An attempt at strawberry, or cherry? It’s raspberry!? I think it’s weird.

Morrison’s The Best Belgium Dark Chocolate & Raspberry Egg
£6/240g, morrisons.com
There’s strange marbling, like I’m staring into a crystal ball through the mists of time, with flecks of lost souls. It feels weird, like leather. Funny red fruity bits – so sweet, no tartness.★

All items blind tested. Jeremy Lee is chef proprietor of Quo Vadis, London, W1; his book Cooking: Simply and Well for One or Many is out now (4th Estate, £30)